Gulmarg, Kashmir

A day trip to Gulmarg in the Pir Panjal mountain range turned into a real highlight. Gulmarg boasts the world's highest gondola, rising to 13,500 feet (4400m). Although it was late in the season, there were still a few days skiing left and I managed to sneak in a couple of runs. Just when I thought I'd skied the last run of the season! The skiing was way better than I imagined - a decent of 1100m into 2 open bowls above the timberline. The snow at the top was surprisingly good, preserved by the altitude.

My guide Tahir and I were the only ones on the mountain! Indian's don't ski much it seems, instead amusing themselves by taking sleigh rides around the Gondola mid station. There were some skis and poles available, but these were used only as props in photographs. People would stand in their Wellington boots above a pair of angled skis for that perfect holiday snap. In reminded me of those painted scenes you see at English seaside resorts, with holes cut out to stick your face through.

3500 feet of India vertical await! said the actress to the Maharaja. I hope the day-glo boots distract you from the mincing pose.

You don't see one of these at every ski resort! The Indian Army is everywhere in Kashmir, every village, every road and even every ski slope. The Pakistan border is not far from Gulmarg.

Hiking Kashmir

After 2 days on our houseboat we headed up into the Himalaya to the east of Srinagar to do some hiking. We stayed with a family in a small gypsy village close to Sonamarg. These people describe themselves as 'gypsy people' or 'pony people' and I suspect belong to the 'scheduled castes' as they are now described in India - what used to be called 'untouchables'.

The gypsy people lack almost all basic infrastructure. There is no sewage system, no garbage collection and no running water apart from the local river. They have electricity but with several long outages each day and then only for lighting - they have no refrigeration. Most importantly they don't have easy access to health care which is expensive and many miles away in Srinagar. We patched up a procession of family members with cuts, scrapes and grazes using our little medical kit. We were the first western visitors of the season as the snow has cleared in only the last few weeks.

The family were wonderfully welcoming and we left after 3 days feeling almost a part of it. They took us hiking each day, sometimes with their ponies, and once above the timberline at 11k feet as we scrambled up a local mountain with amazing views - all the way to K2 on a clear day. Hopefully this will help with our acclimatisation for Nepal. We'd love to come back in the summertime when the snows have cleared for a longer trek.

Our cook and guide was Shafi, who travelled with us from Srinagar. Shafi is an interesting character who can speak at least 6 different languages (we were still counting when we left) and sings each language too. Nights were filled with playing cards and listening to songs in Fârsi and Kashmiri. Each song told a story, typically a cautionary Muslim fable which he would tell us we would do well to heed.

Shafi also claimed to have seen several Jinn, and also to know some personally. I had read an article about Jinn last year, but it is a very different experience to be told about them first hand, by candlelight in a remote Kashmiri village.

Our Mum for 2 days and the lady of our gypsy house.

Little Rhuma charmed "bishkits", hairclips and various girly products from Mary every day

Mary, Shafi, Rhuma and determined little chap with stick.

Srinagar, Kashmir

A change of plans has brought us to Kashmir and the town of Srinagar on Dal lake. We're staying on one of 1000 houseboats, built by the Brits because the local Maharaja wouldn't sell them any land. An ingenious and bloody-minded solution, as one might expect.

Srinagar is a pretty amazing place. Dal lake is full of floating houses, gardens and people going about their daily lives. The lake is surrounded by enormous mountains and our first encounter with the Himalaya to the east. The architecture, people and culture are very different from the Hindu plains. Here Islam is the majority and the buildings look almost Swiss-like - built to withstand winters snows.

We have arrived in the middle of celebrations for Mohammad's birthday. Many thousands of people from all over Kashmir are here to pray at a mosque which contains a hair from the Prophet. Five times every day the amplified sounds of Imams from all over the lake drift across the water to our houseboat.

Local kids always want to practice their amazingly good English

The school run, Kashmiri style