Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts

Friday, November 2, 2007

Baja California

The day after Wendy and Isaac got married, we made a break for the Mexican border. We weren't fugitives from the law, but we drove like we were. Our destination was La Paz in Baja California and we covered over 1800 miles to get there.

The Baja peninsular is everything you expect a desert to be: Sandy, *lots* of cacti and flocks of circling vultures. The only characters missing were Wile E. Coyote and that irritating Road Runner chap.

The roads were long, windy, bad and stunning. Much fun to drive. They were also littered with all sorts of debris and road humps that looked exactly like the ones we'd encountered in India, and just as vicious. I wonder who exports to whom? Our little Audi, with its low suspension and Michelin Alpin snow tyres, was not entirely suited to the terrain and inevitably, we bent the suspension again - the third time. You might leave your heart in San Francisco, but you'll likely leave your transmission in Baja.



The road was long, twisty and thin, and there were a great profusion of cacti.


Baja peninsular is narrow, but surprisingly long. We drove over 3300 miles! - and only sailed 100 :-(


This big, hairy, inverted carrot is unique to Baja (no jokes about Mary please). Ciros grow only an inch each year and some are over 250 years old!


There are many big-ass cacti in Baja.


Military checkpoints abounded and we were stopped and searched many times. These wooden figures marked the approach to a checkpoint and were very disconcerting at night. I wonder if the soldiers make them during arts and crafts time in basic training? There's clearly an influence from South Park, although it's not clear if this is consciously acknowledged by the artist.

Sea of Cortez

Our final destination in Baja was La Paz on the Sea of Cortez where we rented a bareboat for a week and sailed the southern islands. Our home was Explorer - a little Beneteau Oceanis 36.

After 3 days of light air sailing our wish for more wind was answered with a vengeance. A northerly storm blew up in just a few minutes as we pulled into a northerly anchorage. We made a last minute break for a protected southerly cove where we were sheltered on our own for 2 days. To be marooned on alone on a desert island sounds idyllic, but winds gusting "20 to 70 miles an hour" and a boat heeling against it's anchor, have a way of ruining the moment.

After a second night with 2 anchors out and an abortive attempt to brave the breaking swells, our third night brought 2 other boats into the cove and reduced winds. The next day (which Mary described as "the worst of my life", which I'm sure it wasn't really) saw us motor sail for 8 hours though a large and uncomfortable following swell which tossed the boat about constantly. Mary also described the experience as "hair bitting" but I'd go so far as to say it was "nail raising".



We shared our first night's anchorage with this rather handsome schooner.


Mary enjoys a sundowner in the cockpit. The calm before the storm.


Explorer lies at anchor in the distance as we duly explore Isla San Francisco, our refuge and trap. Looks deceptively calm in the lee of the island, doesn't it?


Explorer at anchor and her tender on the beach.